6pm may seem a little early for dinner, but 4.5 hours later you’ll look back at the set of accomplished, delicate, creative dishes showcasing the best of the UK's seasonal produce and you’ll be glad you started so early. The discreet exterior gives little clues as to what lies within. You’ll be served drinks in the bar before being guided to your seat at the counter, where everyone is served at the same time and chef-owner James Knappett and his team explain the make-up of each dish.