Berenjak: The Standard

21 November 2018

As you enter the artfully downbeat doorway a bank of thrumming equipment including a mangal grill, vertical rotisserie and clay oven catches your eye behind the counter with stools in front for watching, basking in the scents and eating.

It has however conferred a terrific look. “It feels like it’s in a reclaimed building in a bombed-out city with crumbling plaster and traces of wallpaper. It is distasteful and pretentious but looks fantastic anyway, so sod it”, writes my friend Kate.